Single Day on Aliexpress


A few weeks before Black Friday, Aliexpress launches Single Day promotions: a good opportunity to offer improvements to your 3D printer!

Here is my selection:


All-metal Heatblock, lining & hotend

The nozzle, hotend and lining are critical parts of your printer. Replacing poor quality clones with good quality clones according to E3D guidelines is a good and cheap option:

If you print with abrasive filament (carbon fiber, phosphorescent,...), choose a copper heatblock and a hardened steel nozzle:

To protect your nozzle and heatblock from printing accidents and to insulate it thermally, you can opt for a "sock" (be careful! Only compatible with the above articles or with the original E3D articles !) :

If, on the other hand, you own a Creality CR10 or Ender 3, you certainly have (or had...) a cotton insulation around the nozzle. This type of insulation is often problematic: it eventually deteriorates and is complicated to change because the entire heating block must be removed. An alternative exists:

You can also opt for a complete E3Dv6 clone "pack" of excellent quality (including a "sock" as above):


E3D clone nozzles that scrupulously respect the E3D specifications for a fraction of the price of the originals? It's at TriangleLab again (4 pcs/pack):

Hardened steel nozzles for your abrasive filaments (1 pcs/pack):

Tempered steel nozzles for your Volcano hotend:

Nozzles for your volcano extruder, for high speed or high temperature printing:

Quality MK8 nozzles to replace those of your Creality (CR-10, Ender 3, ...) :

MK8 nozzles (Creality CR-10, Ender 3,...) in tempered steel for use with abrasive filaments (glow in the dark, carbon, glass fibre, etc.):

Bowden tube

As mentioned in my article explaining how to adjust your extruder, choosing a Capricorn bowden tube helps to improve the accuracy of the system. TriangleLab (again) provide a high quality clone:




The latest from Trinamic, the TMC2209 includes the improvements of the TMC2208 with the features of the TMC2130, in a few words, they are able to make your printer totally silent and allow you to do without endstops on the X and Y axes via simple wiring or no wiring if you use the SKR 1.3 board:


Mosfets are used to protect your board by isolating the electrical circuit from the heatbed (and possibly the hotend). Choose good quality mosfets for strong connections and a well-dimensioned heat sink.

For most heatbeds and for the hotend, this kind of mosfet is sufficient:

For a large heating plate, choose a larger mosfet like the following:


SKR 1.3 to switch to 32 bits and simplify the wiring of TMC drivers for a few euros:

SKR 1.3 + drivers + screen for just over 60€ :

Automatic levelling probe

The BLTouch probe is known in 3D printing. I've been using his clone for some time now without any worries:


Titan Aero (clone to E3D specifications, including the tritran plate) :

Titan (clone to E3D specifications, SET 4 for the complete set) :

Bondtech BMG (good quality Trianglelab clone) :

Flexible couplers

To counter "z-wobble" problems, the solution is to swap your fixed couplers for flexible couplers:

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